www.imoc.co.uk

http://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?details=Ordern&cart_id=25993435.110.22314&typ=R-196834&ranzahl=4&Breite=185&Herst=Vredestein&Quer=60&Felge=14&Speed=H&weiter=0&kategorie=6&Ang_pro_Seite=15&Transport=P&dsco=110&sowigan=So Just to point...

Just a couple of pics of options - first is my old import SC, with the K&N in the boot ( with a section of plastic drainpipe as an adaptor ) http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/7450/dscf0004sx.jpg And my current track car - Mk1a with a chargecooled 4A-GZE. Air from the sidescoop is trunked to blo...

IIRC The rear torque mount on an SC has, in addition to the two bolts that go vertically up from below, two bolts that go horizontally through the crossmember

The bits you need are the three strips labelled 52522 ( x2 ) and 52521 in the diagram above

You need to seal it up to avoid water entering the boot - ideally in a reversible way so you can re-instate the pipework at a later date if you want ( I did this to reduce the noise level for trackdays, with the K&N sitting where the standard airbox normally resides ). I found that the lid from ...

The Haynes comic for the AE92 Corolla quotes the 4.312 FD figure. Unfortunately their MR2 one doesn't seem to have any ratio info ( nor does their Carina E one ) nor does the US Chilton manual I also have.

PW@Woodsport wrote:Sadly the information on Wikipedia ........ is wrong

Not unusual

( or could just be ratios for a different market - I think they supplied different ratios to the US for instance )

Finn wrote:That is interesting.

What kind of gear/final ratios are we talking here compared to say stock Mk1b ratios?

List here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_C_transmission

Don't forget that sometimes it isn't the fault of the gearbox - if the torque mounts are knackered they can allow the 'box to rock back and forth too much. A relatively easy thing to swap, either by replacing the rubber mounts or by reinforcing them with silicone rubber.

What colour did you paint the teardrops ? The original colours is dark grey metallic - when I repainted a set a while ago I used smooth Hammerite dark grey.

Cool. How did you do this fella? Remove all the screws you can get at ( it may help access if you can remove the seat - only 4 bolts ) - IIRC there will be one you can't get to at the front of the doorcard because of the dashboard being in the way, but you should be able to pop off most of the reta...

What's the temperature where you are - could just be a frozen lock

elbon50 wrote:

Limeymk1 wrote:You'll need 20V pistons too.

Why 20V pistons Chris ?

Cutouts on the top of the piston for the valves

The 20V uses exactly the same bolck as all the later 4A-GE engines ( ie the ones with oil squirters etc. ). Remember though you'll need the 20V ECU and loom to get the best out of it, as it has an early version of VVTi IIRC

Just watching the documentary about The Comic Strip on Dave, and the one about the miner's strike ( Strike! ) has a white Mk1a in it

^ This is the word I used - now I wonder if I had spelled 'drain' and 'male chicken' all as one word ......... draincock ( hits 'submit' to see what happens )

Edit - Yay

It can also be worthwhile leaving the drain willy open at the front and sticking a hosepipe in the filler at the back and giving it a good flush through - it's amazing how much crap this can get rid of.

[I didn't write 'willy' - the swear filter doesn't seem to like the technical term I used ]

Check the temp sensor for the cold start injector system - if it's failed then you won't be getting the extra fuel in to start it