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I replaced the coil last week as it had a crack down both sides. I thought that'd be the answer to my problem but no sadly not. didn't know it earthed through bracket. might copper grease the threads up to all coil and bracket bolts to aid earthing in a vauge hope it helps.

Ok I checked the two hoses to and from mbc and they were a-ok, no leaks. I re-installed mbc and the car ran badly again. Without the mbc I only make 5psi boost and the car still mis-fires. Its like it hits a brickwall acceleration wise. Im confused as hell. Maybe I should keep going down igniter or ...

I considered getting a mk3 and putting the 190 bhp celica version of the 1.8vvt in it but thought why bother when for the same money I can get close to 300 bhp in a mk2.

I used to go to the essex meets with Mark and lynn all the time in my Mk1 Mr2. I put a supercharged lump in it and kept up with the turbo guys on the meets :mrgreen:. 180bhp in a mk1 = lotta go with no weight. I was trying to get the car ready to go to this months one but failed. I believe it is hat...

ok just found an article that says the MR2's wastegate is set to 7psi and if boost cut is needed the VSV closes controlling the wastegate so the car only makes 7 psi. I have the VSV side of the wastegate blocked off as I had a MBC so I am assuming this is why I am seeing 5psi of boost (looks like ch...

..damn. I am slowly getting rev3 bits, I have injectors and knock sensor I just need the rest. 90% solved problem as well now. I started checking for vacuum leaks again and took my manual boost controller off in the process to return boost to stock and hey presto car ran good as gold at idle cold an...

Thanks for that peter. My single vac port on throttle body (port P) goes straight to charcoal canister and nothing else. according to some diagrams I found this is correct less the bimetallic valve which I dont seem to have. I have done some testing with multimeter and coolant sensor is spot on and ...

Thanks for pics psummers. those pictures are different from mine as well :(. I have no big black box on my pcv hoses and my throttle body has one port for vac hoses and the other is blocked - I think the second is for cars with EGR, since mine is jap spec it doesnt have egr :). Would only remove it ...

This sentance "I have a pipe from the throttle body pipe straight to sensor" is meant to read - I have a pipe from the throttle body pipe straight to charcoal canister. tested coolant temp sensor and that's ok as well. Anyone any ideas still? I might get fuel pressure gauge and check fueli...

Found this site http://staff.osuosl.org/~bkero/bgb/mech ... system.htm (online BGB manual) for my answer to sensor readings.

pipe info would be good though. Would having a pipe from charcoal canister straight to manifold have any ill effect?

Right, tonight I checked the tps sensor with my multimeter and it was spot on. I pulled the dizzy apart to check rpm sensor side of it and all looked ok, pickups were slightly rusty but not that bad. I assume to re-install the dizzy you time the engine up via marks to tdc on no1 and line the slot an...

Cambelt timing is spot on, i've double checked that. ignition timing spot, on. I might have a spray round with some carb cleaner and see if it revs up to see if I can find any air leaks. I thought about checking tps but since it ran spot on before the hg went I deliberately havent touched any sensor...

even if I did increase idle by turning that screw there is still the problem of it being gutless in gear to the extent of being undriveable.

Mk2 Turbo, rev1 but engine is rev 2. I had a mk1 but sold it. Need to update .

Idle valve ok and clean . Do you know what readings I should see from the coolant temp sensor at various engine temps?

Hi there. My car idles cold at 1000rpm dropping to 300rpm when hotter and then dies. Driving it is impossible, I put my foot down in first gear and it wont rev and pick speed up; it does however rev ok when not in gear (or at least to 3000rpm, i've not gone further than that as I dont want to annoy ...

Ok for those following this thread I have a development. There was a wire near my battery with a plug on and an o-connector to go to battery live that was off. I have connected this and battery light on dash has gone out. Phew one problem down. There is another plug not going to anything, I will try...

Yup 300 rpm then dies. let it cool and just checked and it idles at 1000 cold. I went to double check ignition timing so got car hot by holding the revs up, bridged TE1 and E1 and made sure it was at 10Degrees BTDC and it was spot on... I did however notice that every 3-4 sparks didnt happen, it kep...

I crossed the fp and b+ terminals and it runs for about a minute with or without it bridged. When the car stalls I can start it and it will run for another minute then die. When cold the engine idles slightly smoother as well compared to whan it is hot. Isnt't the engine meant to idle at 2000rpm col...

Hi there. I've taken the fuel return off with car idling with rag over it and it gushes out but iwill def try the terminals when I'm home from work. I've checked and double checked all pipes from vacuum to intercooler sizes and they're ok. The battery light has only been on since fault arose. I have...