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22m ring wrench + 2 meter long pipe did the trick on mine.

Ok thanks for all the information, Ill check it when I find some time .

So can this gear be replaced without pulling the gearbox out?

Don't the tach and speedo work using the same cable?

I had to move my car yesterday (moved) and took it out on the road for the first time after swapping in a SC engine. Now I noticed the speedo isn't working but the tach does. Anyone knows what's up? I'm using the SC gearbox and brought the SC cable from the parts car when pulling the engine but I ca...

Wish I had the space for a third car .

Don't recall where I got it but it saved me after months of troubleshooting why my NA would always stall at a red light. It's for a Celica/AE86 but it should be the same for an AW11. This screw (just a variable resistor) was busted and the mixture was too lean/rich to idle properly. This setting is ...

Adjust the screw next to the MAP sensor. This controls the idle mixture.

It's either broken or set way to rich.

Check page 4-26 of this manual.

http://files.aeu86.org/manuals/4age-dia ... parrot.pdf

Took out the sparkplugs today and they were black, so it's running rich. Seems I also messed up while switching them last time. There were 2 different types in it. Replaced them all with new ones. Cleaned up the ignotor and coil bracket cause they were rusty and I read they are a grounding point. Un...

I tried looking for a vacuum leak last night but the idle is just to unstable to find it using the traditional spray carb cleaner method. It will rise and lower on it's own even without touching anything. Spraying carb cleaner on the same spot will lower the idle the first time, next time it will ri...

The car doesn't throws any error codes. Can I measure the voltage by disconnecting the valve when it's running? Or how should I reach the cables otherwise? I'm thinking I just have a very well hidden vacuum leak that's letting in more air than measured and leaning out the mixture. Or a VSV that's no...

Got a spare Idle control valve?

Half an hour to swap it then half a month to get all air out properly :p

The early 4A-GZE uses an AFM. I didn't open the AFM only tested if the flapper moved freely and blew some brake cleaner through the bypass hole to see if it wasn't clogged.

Just cleaned the idle control valve but it didn't seem to help. I tested the control valve by applying power to it and it opens in both directions.

No clue left on what to try .

(Updated the topic to better reflect the issue).

I'll perform some more thorough tests tonight but last night I kept it stead around 2000 rpm for about 20 seconds and it was still engaged.

Would it matter if the car is being driven or not? It's still parked in the garage until I figure everything out.

Just figuring out the last few problems on my NA to SC swap and this is one of them. When is the SC clutch suposed to be engaged? My supercharger seems to turn slowly at idle (which is normal due to the air passing through I think) but as soon as I rev it (even a little bit) it will engage and stay ...

Coolant is bled and the water temp is within range (both cold and hot) but the problem stays the same I tried disconecting the TPS, cold start injector and idle control to isolate the problem but none of them solved the issue. I removed the AFM to clean later today, but don't think that will work, t...

I managed to get the screw out and adjust the TPS. To bad, the hardware store didn't have M4x12 hex bolts so I had to use screws again. Unfortunately it didn't help my problem :(. I managed to set the timing by adjusting the idle way to high, shorting the terminals to go into diagnostic mode and low...

I tested it today (after waiting 2 days for the shop to order some feeler gauges) and it slightly out of spec. The idle circuit should be closed at 0.65mm but isn't, it is at 0.7mm however. I tried adjusting it but the screws holding the TPS are absolutely mangled. Managed to get one of them out but...