www.imoc.co.uk

take it in to kwikfit ask them to do a free diagnoisis and list what need replacing, and go away and think about it, that will tell you what you need

http://www.kwik-fit.com/exhaust-appointment.asp

i would of thought resistor



but why not just connect it to drive the fan?

according to the bgb it use variable resistance to turn on and off fan

you can stick a ohm meter to change old fan resistance

i thought VT32 is the advisories notes and V32 is the daylight MOT MOT comes from the no longer existent Ministry Of Transport, but the name continues to apply to the inspection itself. The actual designation for the pass certificate is VT20, and failure is the VT30, with any advisories being the VT...

that was year ago

http://www.turbomr2.com/MR2/HowTo/APEXI ... VCR-03.htm

i follow these instruction, and found a nice clear road, while my mate driving, i fiddle with the setting, and set it from there

i think it does a single click when ignition is on

depend where you mount it, that thing want dry, vibration free and away from heat,

i think they still fail you , example i can think of is rear fog lamp, import dont have them, but they fail you if you dont have a rear fog

you try the breaking car section under for sale?
i am sure james at 3s may have some spare,

if it is uprated cv then have to wait from usa

http://turbomr2.com/MR2/HowTo/APEXI%20A ... VCR-02.htm

first picture

that should be connected and make clicking nosie when on boost

it is rapid clicking, when it is controlling boost (but depend where you mounted it)

self learning dont usually work (it usually overboost)

if it was pump in correctly before, then it should work ok

summer and winter is different, so if you set these in winter may need to readjust the setting

do you still hear it click when on boost,

also i remember it have 3 setting, A B and off, make sure you are running the setting

umm i think the problem can be incorrect height of the arb cause by shorter drop link , but i doubt it will cause steering problem on full lock if i remember correctly, the drop link is direct behind the coilover (center) and the only point that travel is where it meet the ARB, (coilover side is fix...

usually local toyota,
but not cheap, few quid a bolt and gasket beat ebay

cant you just get the dash retrim?

coilover one is shorter, (front)

you can get tein one (cost $$$)
or
you can get customone (or make it yourself)

also look at for sell section

and i think there is doc in knowlegebase about using mini one (shorter)

Ps: http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/kb.php?mode=article&k=85
last part

i think it is 9 bolt

but i doubt it is the bolt, either it is the gasket or manifold

and if it is leak from the exhaust manifold, you will know about it in performance

2 x SPAL 12" fans
2 x SPAL 10" fans

depend which model some spec sugguest it can draw upto 32 amp each

if i remember correctly, you just tighten it with a wheel nut
the spindle should press into place so it will not free spin as you tighten it

no,

but they did make caldina and most are auto

i think it been done before but cost alot and not alot of gain
so people go the usual choice

sell the car and buy a turbo
or down the transplant route

2 choice left

Turbo transplant
or
V6 Transplant

never put a fcd on a rev3 +, rev2 yes, but on a rev4 you will kill it