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Yes, pin 10 of 16.

Your GT4 doesn't have EGR does it?

It connects to the 15 pin plug of the chassis loom and I guess that it runs up to the aircon unit behind the dashboard.

Circuit boards can be marked with things like THG even though the ecu does not support it. This is because the hardware is same regardless of the programming. So, as per my earlier post, the THG input gets used for THE in the JDM rev1/2 turbos.

EGR is used on California GT4's/MR2's and UK ST205's (I don't know about the earlier UK GT4's). The CCO illuminates a warning on the dash on MR2 but because it goes via the ecu I also suspect that the ecu probably reduces boost and enriches the fueling when it thinks the catalytic converter is too h...

'THA' is the inlet air temperature sensor, part of the VAF on rev1/2 and in the airbox on rev3/ST205. Apexi call this 'AIRT'. 'THAM' is the inlet manifold air temperature sensor on rev3/ST205. Apexi call this 'AIMT'. 'THG' is the EGR temperature sensor, but since there is no EGR on UK spec rev1/2 th...

Fairly sure. I did a lot of research into the codes that Toyota use for my rev2 to rev3 conversion. Incidentally, the UK spec ST205 loom does not have this pin connected up.

'THE' is the aircon evaporator temperature sensor.

Is it the bearings that are scored and the cam lobes are OK? If so, then the bearings can be repaired. It's advisable to also check the clearances in your head too so that this can be taken into account if necessary. You can also salvage the lobes as well (a regrind to a smaller base circle) but it'...

AE101 89661-12790 pinouts

http://opc.mr2oc.com/online_parts_catal ... %20101.pdf

The spark retard during warmup is there to heat the catalytic converter up more quickly. It might also contribute to the EGO warmup because it's non heated on the rev1 and 2's.

I used a bottom ball joint as pattern for the machinist who did mine. The thickness depends on how much you have lowered the suspension by.

The RCA should really have a 'shoulder' to fit into the hub (as per the ball joint) and a recess to accept the lower ball joint's shoulder. The hub is such a soft metal you do not want to be relying on the bolts alone.

I suggest reading these posts about Roll Centre Adjusters if you have not already done so before deciding to use them; http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=66912 http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2427 Any decent machinist could make some up for you at less cost than the commercial...

>PETE< wrote:The Alternator itself has a 3 wire plug going into it. ........ Does anyone know what the 3 wires do, or where they go?

Pin 1 (L) - Charge warning light in the instrument cluster
Pin 2 (IG) - IG1 of the ignition switch via 10A fuse
Pin 3 (S) - To the battery main fusible link via 7.5A fuse

From above

3sgte wrote:when you changed your harness did you change the chassis harness as well as that is different on gen3 aswell

Did you do this? FPR, PSCT, PS, ABS and ECO need re-pinning.

Northampton Motorsport are good providing the right chap is doing it, I think his name is Neil and he comes in just to do geometry. Make sure everything is freed off beforehand - do this yourself and don't just soak everything in WD40 the night before and hope it's OK. The rear toe links are the wor...

There's GM supercharger oil, part number 12345982. You can find it for less than $10 for 4 fl. oz. in the 'States.

Icsunonove wrote:I've got a video too:

Maybe you've inadvertently discovered that the previous owner frequented cruises and hooked the lights up to the stereo.........

at the nail.

Sounds like the headlight retract control relay is playing up. It's the black box next to the wiper motor, check the terminal connections.

G1 = TDC signal phase 1
G2 = TDC signal phase 2
NE = RPM signal from cam sensor
G- = ground for NE, G1 and G2 signals