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Problem with engine vaccum (blue top)

 
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Qantum




Joined: 20 Dec 2017
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 4:47 pm    Post subject: Problem with engine vaccum (blue top) Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

Hi
I have problem with my engine. Car works with very high RPM (2000 up).
English isn't my native language so i have video where you can see my problem.
I replaced each tube I found, but I still have a problem.

htt ps://youtu.be/4AycjHir5pI (Delete space)
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Lauren
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Joined: 13 Dec 2004
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Location: Greater Manchester
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

Here's your link so it works:

youtu.be/4AycjHir5pI
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2013 GT86 Injen Induction. Volks Racing TE37s & TRD Aero Fins, Mega sounds. TEIN Street Flex 5/6kg, TEIN EDFC Active Pro. Tuning Developments Remap 4-1 Manifold, TD resonated exhaust, decat/overpipe, AP Racing 4 Pot front brakes. [lover]
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jimi




Joined: 14 Dec 2004
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1988 Toyota MR2 Mk1b

PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2018 10:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

That pipe you connected/removed at the end of the video is for the MAP sensor and must remain connected, the engine won't run/idle properly with it disconnected.
With it connected run the engine until it's up to temperature may take a good 15/20 minutes.
Does the RPM drop gradually as the engine warms up to around somewhere 800/1000rpm ? if does then that's perfectly normal for a MK1.

If the RPM does not drop then it's probably your AAV sticking so read on.

The AAV (Auxiliary Air Valve) is basically an air valve that is controlled by coolant temperature. When the engine is cold it's open and allows air past the throttle butterfly, the MAP sensor tells the ECU about the drop in manifold pressure (more air) and the ECU alters the fuelling to suit causing the rpm to increase, which is why the MK1 can idle at 2/2.5k rpm when cold. As the coolant heats up the valve closes, reducing the air, ECU compensates, idle drops. The warm idle is set by an air screw on the top of the throttle body (normally hidden under a round black plastic plug)
They are well known for sticking and causing problems.
There's an easy check to carry out to find out if the AAV is functioning properly.
With the engine at normal running temperature, take the inlet pipe off the throttle body, if you look at about the 5 o'clock position you will see a small hole (about 5mm dia ) block off the hole with your finger (press tightly) and see what happens, if the AAV is open then the rpm will drop, engine may even stall.
The hole you want to block is marked C in this picture. (picture courtesy of Paul Woods)

More info on the AAV and solutions here
http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2-knowledge-base/mr2-mk1.html?catid=3&kbartid=54
http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2-knowledge-base/mr2-mk1.html?catid=3&kbartid=55
http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2-knowledge-base/mr2-mk1.html?catid=3&kbartid=56
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ufer




Joined: 22 Dec 2010
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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2018 1:04 pm    Post subject: RPM Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

I made that trick 3 years ago - (2500 rpm). At first with 5 mm hole (1800 rpm) and second - with 4 mm hole (1500 rpm) because in my country (Bulgaria) is warmer as in the UK. These RPM now are absolutely perfect for our climate. I gave this trick to some friends of mine and they were fully satisfied too.
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Qantum




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PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2018 12:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

Sorry for not responding for so long but to be honest i forgot [Smile]
Car after ingintion adjustment and burnout now works good I think.
When cold rpm rise to 2500 but when becoming warm rpm falling to ~900.


Still some work to do but almost finished [Smile]
imgur.com/a/pX4qPls

Wyniki wyszukiwania

Worst thing is fog lights. No way to find original so i must find similar.
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