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[url=https://imoc.co.uk/app.php/kb/viewarticle?a=69&sid=32029514311ab01502e9709ef7be7eb0]Knowledge Base - High brake light installation[/url]
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\High-level brake light installation\![](./../../images/smilies/spacer.gif)
by Paul Marsden\
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The big problem with fitting a brake light to an MR2 is that you need to go through right through the engine bay
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(and two bulkheads) to tap into the brake light circuit in the boot.
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Fortunately, Toyota have a couple of grommets in each bulkhead so you can use these to find a way through.
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I found that I needed quite a bit of wire to install my brake light
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(the wire that came with the light was no way near enough).
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I decided to run the wires down the drivers side all the way as this avoids having to work a way past the air filter, coolant system, etc.
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I started at the rear light cluster and tapped into the G-W wire
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(green with a white stripe) this is the positive brake, and the W-B wire
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(White with a black stripe) for common ground
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- check that these are the same on yours first though by removing the rear light cluster and seeing which wire goes where.
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If you pull back the carpet in the boot
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(removing a couple of clips if required) and you should be able to find a suitable point to tap into the wiring loom
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-most brake light kits come with those tap-lock connectors now so you don\'t need to worry about cutting the wires
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- it\'s a good idea to wrap the connectors in insulating tape afterwards just in case.
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There\'s a grommet on the bulkhead that separates the boot and the engine bay, use a screwdriver to punch a small hole through this and feed the two wires through and then use a bit of insulation tape to make it secure.
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Feed the wires around the engine bay keeping as far away from the engine as possible, cable-tying and taping as you go just so the wires won\'t get caught on anything.
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There\'s a grommet on the bulkhead that separates the engine bay from the cockpit, quite a few wires already pass though here so a couple more won\'t make much difference.
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Again, use a screwdriver and seal up with tape afterwards.
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It might be a good idea to move the firewall out of the way before doing this so you can pull the wires through.
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To move the firewall firstly remove the box lid that is behind and below the drivers seat
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- on some MR2s this is a lockable storage box, on others
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(like mine) this contains a subwoofer.
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Three screws need to be undone and the lid should just come off
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- you should now be able to pull the firewall up
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(mostly carpet and soundproofing material).
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Underneath you should find the other side of the grommet.
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From here on it gets a bit tricky as you\'ll need to feed the wire across and up round the drivers quarter light
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(I couldn\'t get this bit of trim off so I needed to take the long route), and above the rear windscreen.
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My 2 is a T-bar so it\'s a bit easier to get behind the trim
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(most of it unclips quite easily).
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The trim that fits above the rear windscreen comes off very easily
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(held up by a few clips), I screwed my brake light into this to make it a bit more stable
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(fixing it with double-sided sticky pads seems a bit amateur to me!).
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At this point I used a screw-down connector to link the wires together
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(this helps if you get the wires the wrong way round!)
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- luckily, I was right first time.
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You should now be able to test it by putting your foot on the brake
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(you don\'t even need the key in the ignition), I don\'t see a reason to disconnect the battery as long as you don\'t put your foot on the brake while you\'re holding the wires.
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If you haven\'t already bought your brake light I\'d recommend getting one of those thin LED-strip types just so it doesn\'t affect your rear view
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(mine cost me just 7 quid!).
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The LEDs are very directional too so it isn\'t that noticeable inside the car when you\'re driving at night.