Splitrim Refurb Guide

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[url=https://imoc.co.uk/app.php/kb/viewarticle?a=47&sid=6f0c224f234a5f73b673068395e9a12b]Knowledge Base - Splitrim Refurb Guide[/url]

Okay first here is the shopping list:
• Paint Stripper (Nitromors is reccomended)
• Rubber Gloves
• Plastic Bodyfiller spatular
• Sandpaper – Wet and dry grades 240, 400, 600, 800, 1200 (your arms are gonna be aching)
• Metal Polish (Solvol Autosol reccomended)
• Sealant (Vauxhall Gasket Cement ) Its non acidic which is the important part
• VM8 Torq bit
• Safety glasses
Price for about is estimated at approx £30.00 give or take.
Step - 1
• Take the wheel off your car

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• Using a multispline torz bit and a breaker bar - loosen the bolts off half a turn
• Spin em all out - the U shaped driver pictured is wonderfull for this job - keep the bolts safe for the moment
• Turn the wheel on it's side holding it upright between your knees tap the back of the centre section on the hub face with a bit of wood to free up the centre, it will pop out (don’t forget to catch it)

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• This is the big problem - water gets between the centre and the rim and corrodes the wheel out towards the rim - unless of course you've kerbed it then it does the same job from both dirrections

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Step – 2

• Get the tyres removed off the rims (will cost you approx £12.00)
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Step – 3
First messy part (paint stripper), don your rubber gloves and safety goggles – if this stuff gets in your eyes it hurts (lots) and it will burn your skin, so cover up any exposed skin.

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• Apply a layer of paintstripper to your wheel, do this in a well ventilated, warmish environtment (no direct sunlight)

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• Leave the stripper for 10 mins and it shall look all crusty as above
• Use your thin plastic bodyfiller spatular and scrap off the bubbled coating the paint stripper created.
• Rinse the wheel with water

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• Use your 240 grade wet and dry and give it a sanding (use it dry)
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• Proceed on to 400 grade wet and dry (use it dry)
• Now onto 600 grade wet and dry (use wet)
• Then 800 grade wet and dry (use wet)
• Finally 1200 grade wet and dry (use wet)

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• The motion you sand the rim will be give you the smooth finish you want. So you will need to follow the curve of the rim (1) with the sandpaper and then go accros the rim (2). So you can’t use blocks.
Step – 4
Below are examples of different polishing products and methods (black & decker assited and by hand)

• Wheel quatered

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Step – 5
Now we move on to the centres, the ones below have been shot blasted and powder coated black. If you want them silver then it’s the same procedure except you ask them to make it silver (obviously). £95.00 for all four, so expect to pay something like that)

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Step – 6
Final step in the guide.

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• Rim with mating surface cleaned and ready
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• Apply Sealant in a bead all the way round - what you want to do is stop the water getting between the rim and the flat edge of the centre so I don't want any on the jointing face.

• Drop the centre in and line it up with the holes - press down firmly

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• Loctite the bolts one after another and drop em into the holes (work quickly here

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• Pick two opposites and gently tighten them up - not fully tight just nip em - pick another two at 90 deg to them and do the same
• Catch up with all the others - remember to always work from one side of the wheel to the other - nip em up hand tight only

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• Once they are all nipped go round with a torque wrench and bring em all up to 20 NM

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• Repeat at 30 NM and that will do nicely
• Final step is to get the tyres put back on the rims and balanced (£24.00)
All done!


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